!±8±HC98CA031
Brand : General ElectricRate :
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Post Date : Dec 31, 2011 12:45:24
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Carrier, Bryant, Payne 370V, 30/5 MFD, Dual Run, Round Capacitor
Saturday, December 31, 2011
Monday, December 26, 2011
Fixing your Air Conditioner (Capacitor Replacement) DIY
When my AC stopped working on the first day of summer, I went to yelp and called the high rated HVAC companies for service. All of them said they were booked until the following week. I decided to research what the problem may be by looking at the manual, online HVAC forums, and watching YouTube videos. As a result, I figured out that the problem was my capacitor. I have documented my journey in replacing the AC capacitor. This is also my first edited DIY film in my life using iMovie. Thanks for watching!
Monday, December 19, 2011
Replacing Motor Run Capacitor On An AC Unit.....
So, we are going to install a new AC capacitor for this motor on an AC unit.
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Saturday, December 10, 2011
Analog Filters
!±8± Analog Filters
Analog filters are commonly used in areas such as electronics, communications, controls and signal processing. It is desirable for engineers and students in these areas to have a sound understanding of basic filter theory. This book is intended to be an intermediate level treatise of this subject. It can be used either as a textbook in a course at either the undergraduate or graduate level, or as a reference for engineers who find it useful to have an introductory knowlege or a general overview of analog filters. It introduces the theory behind filter development and the design techniques commonly used in practice, including the application of standard software packages. Extensive use is made of MATLAB for examples and problem sets, allowing readers to acquire familiarity with the methods for designing filters with a modern software tool.
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Wednesday, December 7, 2011
How To Repair Monitor Display Dim Problem
This 17" CRT Relisys OEM Monitor came in with the complaint of dark display (can't see back raster). Even though at the front panel through the On Screen Display (OSD), you have adjusted to maximum the back raster still would not show out and the whole display appeared quite dim. Normally whenever we see this kind of dim display problem we will head straight to the flyback transformer and adjust the screen (G2) voltage control to increase the voltage to the picture tube so that the display will become brighter again.
Somehow, in certain CRT Monitor designs, there is no screen (G2) control (knob) for you to adjust. It contains only the two knobs for you to adjust the focus (F1 and F2 knobs). Since we can't find any G2 control at the flyback transformer, one would always search for internal preset brightness control but unfortunately this model doesn't have one. It has only the B+ control and high voltage control preset. The high voltage preset has been glued with silicon and we can't simply tune this preset otherwise the Monitor will intermittently go into shutdown mode. The only preset left for you to adjust is the B+ control. Yes it is true that sometimes in certain Monitor you can tune up the B+ control preset to increase the brightness but it is not recommended due to the increase of the B+ voltage will increase the stress of the horizontal output transistor (HOT). The HOT may not last long and sometimes will blow in couple of hours.
In this Monitor, I tried to adjust the B+ preset to see if the brightness would appear or not but the outcome caused the display to go wider and still dim. If I continue to tune the B+ control, I'm afraid the HOT may blow in a very short time! This is just an experiment only, remember that do not tune the B+ control without a good reason.
After the Monitor had been used for couple of years, the CRT cathodes (emission) may have become weak and this caused the display to go dim. In order to make the display to become brighter again, you can increase the heater voltage from 6.3 volt to about 8 to 9 Volts. Or you can modify the G2 circuit to increase the voltage without tuning any B+ or high voltage preset in the Monitor. In this article I'm touching only on the modification of the G2 circuit.
Since the flyback transformer does not have the G2 control thus we can't trace from the flyback to look for the G2 wire. In fact we can trace backward from the CRT board to see at where the G2 wire came from. Yes it came from the Main board and not from the flyback transformer. Upon turning back the Main board, one can easily see the small G2 circuit that contains a diode, high voltage capacitor and some very high ohm resistor.
This is how the G2 circuit work. The high pulse AC supply came from one of the flyback transformer secondary pin and it go through an Ultra fast recovery diode. The function of the diode is to convert the high ac pulse into DC voltage and the high voltage capacitor (102 2kv-resin ceramic types) is to use to filter off the high frequency ripple and then the voltage flow through the resistors and the resistors determines (set) the output voltage. Once you understand how this circuit work you can easily modify the circuit or change the value of the resistors to make the G2 voltage increase.
From the picture you could clearly see that by removing the jumper and added in a 4.4 Mega Ohm (2.2M in series with another 2.2 M gave the result of 4.4 M Ohm) I could easily increase the G2 voltage. You may ask "How do you get the 4.4 M value?" In fact I tried few high ohm resistor values like starting from 100 K and then 1 M then 2.2 M before I conclude that 4.4 M ohm have the best display (brightness). If you remove the jumper (link) the display will become too bright and not good for the user.
In some Monitor designs, the G2 voltage can be in the highest value and if this happen no matter what resistor value you change or modify the circuit, the G2 output is voltage is still the same because the G2 voltage already in the maximum. You can only lower down the G2 voltage and there is no way to increase the G2 voltage! If this happen then you have to modify the heater voltage to increase the brightness.
Conclusion-In fact in any electronic circuit, if you truly understand how a particular circuit work, you can actually do some modification to make the electronic equipment work again. If the electronic equipment is considered beyond repair, there is no harm in trying out any modification method that you may think is the best to make the electronic equipment to work again. In order to do that, you must first equip yourself to have a basic understanding of electronics theory. For your information, the above problem was a common fault and I've already solved lots of it and made some nice income from a simple 10 minutes job. Have a great day my friend!
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Friday, December 2, 2011
RARE! GE Tube AM Radio Model YRB-60-12 - Before Restoration.
This is how I received the radio, in really good Over-all Condition. Model YRB-60-12. this radio plays well, but will need all new capacitors, I get my caps at tubesandmore.com I use F & T German made Filters, and Orange Drops. I was told, from several different people, that this radio is rare, and I have a great find, If you have a tube radio, Post a video response to this video! Someone replaced the power cord, and Filter Capacitors with Cornell- Dubbler, Electrolytics, the caps are once again bad, so they get replaced. I will make a real time restoration video of it.
Tuesday, November 29, 2011
Truetone D 2026 radio recapping - Muddy Bass back hot
I recapped an old Truetone D 2026. It had some bad leaky IF coupling capacitors. I cleaned off the grime, sprayed the pots and oiled the tuner. I also recapped the main filter cap too. I was quite dignified of how I used a binding post to route the funny looking dogbone resistors and mount the new filter caps. Still it is improved but It has some potential over - modulation problem though. don't exactly know what's causing that. www.radiomuseum.org Note, this is not my first recap job. My first recap job was actually an Eico Ocilliscope I aquired over Ebay for 13$ around 2003. That tube driven scope did not work either when I got it :) Now it actually shows waveforms! Still needs work as waveforms come in squashy lol. I'll save that for another vid :) As a bonus, this is my first major video editing job :)
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Friday, November 25, 2011
LCD TV Problems - How You Can Fix Them Fast
There are many reasons you could be having problems with your LCD TV. The thing to remember is that these things are microprocessor based, just like your computer. That means that at the first sign of trouble you should do the same thing you do with your computer; reboot it! That's right, if your LCD TV is dead ir unresponsive, turn it off with the remote or power button, wait about 10 seconds, then unplug it from the wall. After about 1 minute, plug the power back in and turn the TV on again. With any luck, your TV is now fixed. The next thing that causes problems with all new TVs, not just LCDs is the HDMI connection.
You see, HDMI is a fantastic way to get high definition video, but it's so good that the content providers were worried their stuff would end up out on the Internet in pure form, easy to copy and distribute. To prevent such an occurrence, a copy protection scheme called High Density Copy Protection (HDCP) was developed. This is an electronic data handshake system where the source and display devices have to recognize each other and agree that it's okay to send video. If there is no handshake, or the process gets corrupted in some way, poof, no more video. This problem was extremely prevalent in the early days of HDMI, but has been steadily improving since about the end of 2007 or early 2008.
If you are having problems with your TV, it may actually be an HDMI related issue. Here are some of the problems you might encounter.
Problem 1: No Picture
If you see, or rather don't see this, then shut everything down and then restart the system. Make sure all the connections are in place first. Look at the screen. If you see a resolution notice chances are the DDC line has communicated between source and sink. Good news for you! The problem is likely video related.
Problem 2: Flashes, No Audio, Pink Screen
No audio accompanied by a pink screen is usually indicative of a DDC communication problem. What's that mean for you? To check this, power up the system while all the HDMI cables are connected. If possible, try using shorter cables. Here you need to see if the system works at all. If for some reason the system still fails to come on, try using different inputs. You may find that your cable box will work and your DVD may not or vice versa. This can happen because of stray capacitance on the DDC line inside the HDMI cable. This may actually be caused by the hardware itself. If you think it may be, try getting a DDC line conditioner. Normally, these types of problems completely go away when conditioning is introduced.
Problem 3: Sparkles in the Picture
This is normally a video data transmission problem. Typically data transmission problems with HDMI are cable related. It could be that the cable is underperforming due to its length. This is especially common with cheap cables. Remember the HDMI spec says cable length should not exceed 10 meters. Shortening the cable should improve the signal integrity. Another possibility in this situation is a bad connector. HDMI connectors are notoriously fickle anyway.Try a new cable at each position along the signal path.
Symptom 4: Picture Comes On, Then Goes Off
Typically, this is caused by one of two things. The first is when one or more of the video TMDS channels has a high bit error rate or is not working at all. Next is when the DDC line doesn't quite make it. In that case, the HDCP is not getting a new refresh key. Buy a in a better quality cable with larger wire. When it comes to wire gauge, smaller gauge equals bigger wire diameter. Hence 20 gauge is larger diameter than 24 gauge.
If you're having LCD TV problems, check these things before you call a TV repair company. In many cases you can easily fix the problem yourself without spending a fortune.
Tuesday, November 22, 2011
LED Light Bulbs - The Saviour of Energy Efficient Lighting or Another Waste of Your Money?
Now I don't know about you, but in my experience, ALL fathers have a revolutionary change when we have children. We are the original GREENIES, in the purest sense of the word. It's actually true. When was the last time a Dad walked past a child's room, with their clothes neatly hung up on the floor and the lights still blazing after the impetuous rush out to the PS3, TV or for food. First there is the 'huff and puff' from us Dads as, off goes the light switch! Think about it. We hate wastage when it's us that pays the bills.
Welcome to the Adult Male Green revolution. In our quest for saving the planet - with as little fuss as possible, we turned to bulk purchasing those compact fluorescent 'twirly' bulbs that the marketers promised would save our power bills and our rubbish hills from the all too frequent 'ping' we heard when we turned on our light bulbs. Actually, getting a long life bulb option should have been promoted as a free marriage guidance session as our wonderful ladies tended to get on our case about changing that darn blackened light bulb in the corridor or above the children's homework desk. Now it wasn't the cost of the light bulb that caused the avoidance of 2 months to change it, it was the hassle of buying one every other week as they 'popped' on a seemingly all too regular basis. Add to that, getting the ladder or stool out of the cupboard, moving the furniture around as well as enduring the 'red ear syndrome' from she who must be obeyed. No this new energy efficient bulb would save the day, like some glowing super hero coming to the rescue of our maintenance budgets.
Did you notice something though. The ones we brought on special from that big pallet in the middle of the walkway at our 'Mega Store' of choice, ended up being basically cold blue in colour, making our partners and kids look like they had spent some time in a concentration camp from their sunken features and they never actually gave us the same amount of light as the packaging suggested.
In our house, we ended up buying more floor mounted fittings just to enable me to read the news paper. I also noticed that when I used the most romantic mood setting device, otherwise known as a light dimmer knob, we would end up with more of a disco effect as the fluorescent bulbs flashed and flickered until we realised that the box specifically said they were not compatible with dimmers. I note that wasn't part of the selling pitch from those advertisements.
I also should mention that those less frequent entries in to the rubbish bins they promised didn't eventuate. Even the extra life promised seemed to fail to live up to the years written on the box. No. If I was to change the world, it appeared it would not be through this technology. I have become cynical subsequently of any new inventions for saving my corner of the world from eternal hydro dam power generation threats being built on my back yard.
Imagine my surprise when LED light bulbs began appearing on our new 'Next generation to save the planet' articles. Apparently they were better colour, even more efficient, lasted for over 35,000 hours (or close to 15 years of normal household use) and they were dimmable to boot. Well I, of course, was much the wiser for my previous experiences.
So how does it all look after my research? Actually, things are looking much better than I expected. It seems there is a plethora of cheaper LED light bulbs available that were going down the same track as their compact fluorescent counterparts. They promised much but delivered quite a bit less. The trick for me was to look to the established brands of Philips, Osram, Sylvania, GE and the like. These companies are spending, literally, millions of dollars on research in coming up with solutions, mainly relating to heat management of the LED but also with something called 'Binning'.
Let's look first at the heat management. LED's are generally perceived as almost heat free and to be fair, the LED's we found on our old stereo consoles and on the front of the TV sets are generally very small and not designed to give off useable light. They are purely indicators to let us know that some thing is plugged in or operating and mostly limited to Red or Green in colour. The LED's that are required in a light bulb are a whole new generation and are far more powerful and actually produce quite a bit of heat. So to manage the heat is critical as if that doesn't happen, the LED will very quickly fade and the life will be shortened dramatically. What LED does do, like it's compact fluorescent counterparts, is produce a much better conversion of energy in to light than the incandescant lamps we currently purchase. Less Heat (relatively speaking) for more light. To achieve the ability to maximise the light output as well as the life, a series of heat sinks (or aluminium fins) that dissipate the heat effectively enough around the LED were developed. This will certainly change that appearance of the bulb but it is critical for good function. But up until now the lamps have been consequently low in wattage and in output. However the newer high powered lamps such as the low voltage LED replacements to the dichroic (MR16) lamps actually have a fan built in! This is all part of the research and development required to assure me, the customer, that the details shown on the packaging are accurate. Now I hasten to add that this advice applies to the major brands and not necessarily the cheaper products that are mass produced in some less favourable companies in other parts of the world.
The second issue is 'binning'. I won't go in to the technical aspects but it all applies to the manufacturing process of LED, which is an electronic component, like a diode, resistor or capacitor and not a traditional lighting company product. To that end, lighting manufacturers have to 'sort' or 'bin' the LED's provided by the electronics companies, to ensure that the colour is constant and looks the same in every light bulb you buy. This is a very hard task as the LED's get sorted at the time of manufacture but they have to be resorted once they are put in an enclosed product, such as a light bulb. This is because LED is so sensitive that once the heat is applied, through a confined space such as a sealed bulb, the LED can still change it's performance characteristics.
It is a sensitive electronic component. Once again, to ensure what we buy is going to be effective through its life, the costs have to be considered as a part of what is an amazingly complex pre-manufacture cycle. Not all LED's are created equal as it turns out.
Now for the costs. Well I can assure you that generally speaking, you get what you pay for and the dollars can range from US right up to for a standard replacement lamp. Some countries, such as New Zealand, where I live, have a government subsidised scheme which means that some of the more expensive but quality LED's can be purchased at a much subsidised rate in order to achieve uptake and the payback for the government is reduced requirements for generation relative to community growth. The subsidies generally reduce over time so that the market is not warped too much as one day the subsidy must come off and the if the true cost is too high, customers will simply revert back to their old choices.
New generator capacity comes at a huge cost, so by reducing the loads demanded of generators through energy efficient schemes and subsidies, costs can be delayed and offset through better use of the electricity we are using. All of this varies depending on where you live and what the existing growth and capacity is of the electricity providers.
So in summary, there is no question that LED is a much better lamp source to work with but it will take time for the volume to increase and the research and development costs to be covered before the mass market, non subsidised costs are reduced. In the mean time, as a father and owner of a lighting business I am taking the step of purchasing the latest generation of LED bulbs but I will tread cautiously before buying a house lot. You really do get what you pay for as it turns out.
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Sunday, November 20, 2011
GE 3329, 1/3 HP, 208-230 Volts, 5 5/8 Condenser Fan Motors HP: 1/3, RPM: 1075, Volts: 208-230, Enclosure: Open, Type: Permanent Split Capacitor Bearings: Sleeve, Mounting: A5, Rotation: CCW/CW, 60Hz, Protection: Automatic Reset, Speeds: One, Volts: 2.4, Model Number: 5KCP39HGP698S, Shaft Up
!±8±GE 3329, 1/3 HP, 208-230 Volts, 5 5/8 Condenser Fan Motors HP: 1/3, RPM: 1075, Volts: 208-230, Enclosure: Open, Type: Permanent Split Capacitor Bearings: Sleeve, Mounting: A5, Rotation: CCW/CW, 60Hz, Protection: Automatic Reset, Speeds: One, Volts: 2.4, Model Number: 5KCP39HGP698S, Shaft Up
Brand : General ElectricRate :
Price :
Post Date : Nov 20, 2011 02:48:18
Usually ships in 1-2 business days
General Electric GE 3329 1/3 HP 208-230 Volts 5 5/8 Condenser Fan Motors HP 1/3 RPM 1075 Volts 208-230 Enclosure Open Type Permanent Split Capacitor Bearings Sleeve Mounting A5 Rotation Ccw/cw 60Hz Protection Automatic Reset Speeds One Volts 2.4 Model Number 5kcp39hgp698s Shaft Up
Saturday, October 29, 2011
GE 3328, 1/4 HP, 208-230 Volts, 5 5/8 Condenser Fan Motors HP: 1/4, RPM: 1075, Volts: 208-230, Enclosure: Open, Type: Permanent Split Capacitor Bearings: Sleeve, Mounting: A4, Rotation: CCW/CW, 60Hz, Protection: Automatic Reset, Speeds: One, Volts: 1.8, Model Number: 5KCP39EGP697S, Shaft Up
!±8± GE 3328, 1/4 HP, 208-230 Volts, 5 5/8 Condenser Fan Motors HP: 1/4, RPM: 1075, Volts: 208-230, Enclosure: Open, Type: Permanent Split Capacitor Bearings: Sleeve, Mounting: A4, Rotation: CCW/CW, 60Hz, Protection: Automatic Reset, Speeds: One, Volts: 1.8, Model Number: 5KCP39EGP697S, Shaft Up
Brand : General Electric | Rate : | Price :
Post Date : Oct 29, 2011 05:36:05 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days
| Price : Post Date : Oct 29, 2011 05:36:05 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days
GE 3328, 1/4 HP, 208-230 Volts, 5 5/8 Condenser Fan Motors HP: 1/4, RPM: 1075, Volts: 208-230, Enclosure: Open, Type: Permanent Split Capacitor Bearings: Sleeve, Mounting: A4, Rotation: CCW/CW, 60Hz, Protection: Automatic Reset, Speeds: One, Volts: 1.8, Model Number: 5KCP39EGP697S, Shaft Up
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